Our Epic Train Trip: 14 Night Holiday – March/ April 2007 Photo: ViaRail In terms of breath-taking scenery, there’s Canada – and there’s Canada in winter. The awesome sight of snow on the Rockies is not just the preserve of skiers and their ilk, it is a Winter Wonderland of open spaces and elk. In 2007, Charlie and I were blessed to travel trans-continental in the comfort of “The Canadian” train, through the plains and prairies and the mountains magnificent in their pristine white snow cloaks. From Toronto on the East to Jaspar in the Rockies and onwards to Vancouver on the West Coast, we saw indescribable beauty on an unforgettable journey.  So to get the detailed info. out of the way first; we booked with American Holidays in Dublin and the holiday in Canada was operated in conjunction with Jetsave. We had to fly through the UK with British Midland to connect with Air Canada. Here were the flights we took and the accommodation we stayed in: Flights Information
Accommodation Information The Oakes Hotel Overlooking The Falls, Niagara Falls, Canada http://www.oakeshotel.com/ Arrive 24 Mar 07 for 2 nights (BB) Strathcona Hotel, Toronto, Canada http://www.thestrathconahotel.com/ Arrive 26 Mar 07 for 1 night (BB) “The Canadian” Train - Toronto to Jasper, Canada http://www.viarail.ca/en/explore-our-destinations/trains/rockies-and-pacific/toronto-vancouver-canadian Arrive 27 Mar 07 for 2 nights (Romance by Rail package – All Inclusive) Chateau Jasper, Jasper, Canada http://www.banffjaspercollection.com/hotels/chateau-jasper Arrive 29 Mar 07 for 4 nights (BB) “The Canadian” Train – Jasper to Vancouver, Canada http://www.viarail.ca/en/explore-our-destinations/trains/rockies-and-pacific/toronto-vancouver-canadian Arrive 02 Apr 07 for 1 night (Romance by Rail package – All Inclusive) Renaissance Hotel (renamed Pinnacle Harbourfront Hotel), Vancouver, Canada http://www.pinnacleharbourfronthotel.com/ Arrive 3 Apr 07 for 3 nights (BB) All of the hotels were excellent and I would stay again without hesitation. I haven’t actually done reviews but check out TripAdvisor for more up-to-date reviews.  "Starbuck’s on the left…BUT A TIM HORTON’S ON THE RIGHT!" Day 1 – Ireland/ UK/ Toronto/ Niagara Falls Late Evening – Saturday 24 Mar 2007 Niagara Falls Following our late evening arrival in Toronto, we were met by our bubbly Tour Director, Kaycy. We knew immediately that our group were in good hands and over the next two weeks she looked after us so well. Our group consisted of 4 couples (all British) plus us and we learnt that another Irish couple would join us later for the train part of our trip in Edmonton...so 12 in total. Very early on we learnt how patriotic Kaycy was……every time someone wanted coffee on this trip she’d say “Well, there’s a Starbuck’s on the left…BUT A TIM HORTON’S ON THE RIGHT!" (Tim Horton’s is Canada’s own coffee chain founded in 1964 by Canadian hockey player, Tim Horton). Soon we were en-route by coach to Niagara Falls. Our hotel for two nights was the “Oakes Overlooking the Falls” hotel. This hotel offers rooms with unrivalled views of the Falls. It features panoramic windows and is the closest hotel to the Horseshoe Falls. We were amazed to find the Falls literally across the street. However, because it was so late and the curtains were drawn in the room, we decided to save our first view of the Falls for the next morning.  View from our Hotel Room Day 2 – Niagara Falls Morning – Sunday 25 Mar 2007 So, I jumped out of bed the next morning (back when I could jump!), threw back the curtains and…..NOTHING! A dense fog had descended over the Falls and you couldn’t see past your hand. Disappointed, we made our way down to breakfast in the nearby Appleby’s where we cheered up when we ate our first Canadian breakfast, complete with maple sausage and pancakes with maple syrup.  Applebee's Big Breakfast  Suitably stuffed, we made our way back to the Hotel where Kaycy explained that until the fog lifted we would take a bus trip to Niagara-on-the-Lake…which was lovely. On our return, we were thrilled to see that the fog had indeed lifted and we had a stunning view of the Falls. We spent ages just marvelling at the power of the water…and amazed by the rainbows. What a view…and what noise from the crashing water.  Me at Niagara Falls, 2007.  Niagara Falls is actually a group of three waterfalls at the southern end of Niagara Gorge, spanning the border between the province of Ontario in Canada and New York State in the United States. The largest of the three is Horseshoe Falls, also known as Canadian Falls, which straddles the international border of the two countries. The smaller American Falls and Bridal Veil Falls lie within the United States. They are located on the Niagara River, which drains Lake Erie into Lake Ontario, the combined falls have the highest flow rate of any waterfall in North America that has a vertical drop of more than 50 metres (160 ft). During peak daytime tourist hours, more than 168,000 m3 (six million cubic feet) of water goes over the crest of the falls every minute. Horseshoe Falls is the most powerful waterfall in North America, as measured by flow rate. Here is a Lonely Planet YouTube video of Niagara Falls in all their glory: The falls are 27 kilometres (17 mi) north-northwest of Buffalo, New York, and 121 kilometres (75 mi) south-southeast of Toronto, between the twin cities of Niagara Falls, Ontario, and Niagara Falls, New York. Niagara Falls was formed when glaciers receded at the end of the Wisconsin glaciation (the last ice age), and water from the newly formed Great Lakes carved a path through the Niagara Escarpment en route to the Atlantic Ocean. Niagara Falls is famed both for its beauty and as a valuable source of hydroelectric power. Balancing recreational, commercial, and industrial uses has been a challenge for the stewards of the falls since the 19th century. Afternoon – Sunday 25 Mar 2007 We then went to the IMAX theatre for a presentation on the Falls as well as the Niagara Daredevil Exhibit. It was fascinating to learn about the human history of those who had gone over the Falls. We heard the stories and touched the actual daredevil barrels. Nothing is behind ropes. As we were told “They are not delicate ...after all, these are the true artefacts that survived the plunge so they can survive anything”. We wandered around the town and did some shopping for souvenirs and fridge magnets. Back at the hotel we spent ages staring at the Falls from our hotel room window….taking in the light shows over the Falls when it got dark.  Niagara Falls At Night From Our Room, 2007 Day 3 – Niagara Falls/ Toronto Morning – Monday 26 Mar 2007 Arrive in Toronto - Eaton Centre, Lake Ontario & CN Tower We departed Niagara Falls and continued the 90 miles or so around Lake Ontario to one of Canada’s vibrant and dynamic cities, Toronto. We were keeping our eyes open for glimpses of the CN Tower en-route. As one of the world’s tallest buildings and freestanding structures, it can be seen from quite a distance. We checked into our hotel downtown, The Strathcona Hotel, for one night and then made are way to the Eaton Centre, one of Toronto’s attractions on which winter weather has no effect. Its glass dome shelters more than 350 shops, restaurants and entertainment venues, so rain or shine your shopping expedition is in comfort. No sooner in the door did we see an advertisement saying “You Could Win A Trip For 2 To Ireland”!! Ah here!! We’ve only just left it!!  Ad for Ireland at Eaton Centre, Toronto Evening – Monday 26 Mar 2007 We strolled along the boardwalk by Lake Ontario. There was a cold breeze blowing in from the lake, so we soon headed for the soaring CN Tower, piercing the sky 1,815 feet high, giving an exciting perspective on the city and its surroundings. We headed up to the CN Tower’s 360 The Restaurant, the 350-metre high revolving restaurant offering regional fare and panoramic views. This was to be Charlie’s birthday celebration dinner a couple of weeks early…and it didn’t disappoint. The views were amazing particularly when the lights of the city came on…and the food was delicious. Click this link for a sample menu. After the meal we went to the Look Out and Glass Floor. The views were again quite stunning. Days 4 & 5 – Toronto/ Jasper (On Board “The Canadian”) Morning – Tuesday 27 Mar 2007 This morning we transferred to Toronto’s Union Station to join “The Canadian”. This is Canada’s premier train; to be our carriage and hotel for the two-day transcontinental journey. Elegant dining and excellent service are standard on this famous iron horse of Via Rail. We had opted for the “Romance by Rail” upgrade which is a couples upgrade to include accommodation for two in a private suite – literally two Silver and Blue Class cabins converted into one – featuring a queen-sized bed (which was set up each night by our cabin attendant, Richard, while we were at dinner), two private washrooms, complimentary in-room sparkling wine, fresh-cut flowers and even breakfast in bed upon request. “Romance by Rail” passengers also enjoy access to various lounges aboard the train, including the signature panoramic Dome car, offering 360 degree views of the magnificent Canadian landscape. What an adventure!  The Dome Car (Photo: ViaRail) Murder on the Ontario Express!! We left on time at 9am but unfortunately, there had been a rock slide along the Fraser River to the west and “the Canadian” had to give way to the freight trains which had been held up. We were therefore pulled in to a siding for HOURS!! Trouble was, Charlie is a heavy smoker and the train is non-smoking and the windows don’t open!! No one was let off the train for safety reasons as the siding had no platform. I’m telling you, there was nearly “Murder on the Ontario Express”. Eventually, someone found an orange box for him to disembark the train …..but I still wasn’t sure he’d get back on!! To be honest, the scenery in winter for the first few hours was quite bland….miles and miles of trees and trees and trees. Maybe it’s different at a different time of year. The best thing therefore on the first day on-board was the food. On VIA Rail’s Canadian Train, fine dining comes to you. Sleeper Plus class passengers enjoy lavish meals in the Canadian’s dining car. Locally sourced ingredients give you a taste of the provinces right on board. With multiple courses and a range of menu items, you are sure to find your perfect meal. We could also look forward to appetizers and alcoholic beverages included in the price of our ticket.  View from The Canadian, 2007 Evening – Tuesday 27 Mar 2007 Dining with a View Each table in the Canadian’s dining car sits beside a picture window, perfect for sightseeing. The Canadian's dining car has the ambiance of a fine dining restaurant. Fine china, fresh cut flowers, and white tablecloths create a charming view on board. By morning, choose from a range of breakfast options. Sweet and savoury dishes abound, from French toast to made-to-order eggs to creamy oatmeal. Complete your meal with sides such as bacon and sausage. We tried something new each day. Omelettes of various kinds, pancakes with various toppings, a continental breakfast: the choice is yours. Lunchtime has just as much variety. Try a sandwich or wrap one day, a salad another, and a burger the next. One afternoon’s menu might include a Canadian bison burger, a brown rice veggie burger, a grilled salmon-loaded salad, or a delicious chicken brochette. You are spoiled for choice. As you dine, you can look out at the passing sunlit waters and towering trees. Finally, a typical dinner aboard the Canadian offers soup or salad to start, followed by a spectrum of entrées. Every main course guarantees a meat dish, a fish option, and a vegetarian alternative. One evening, the menu might feature a Cajun-spiced veal chop or Canadian lake trout (which I loved), as well as gluten-and-lactose-free choices from pan-seared duck to stuffed Portobello caps. Other nights might include prime rib of Canadian beef, halibut with fresh fruit salsa, or rack of lamb coated with Dijon mustard and breadcrumbs. As you dine, enjoy Canadian wines from across the provinces, available by the glass or bottle. The menu will even recommend the ideal wine for your chosen meal. Then, top it all off with dessert, before relaxing in your berth or cabin for the night.  Canadian Lake Trout (Photo: Via Rail) Morning – Wednesday 28 Mar 2007 Time Zone Changes The following morning, at Armstrong (just before Sioux Lookout) about 800 miles into the journey we crossed from the Eastern to the Western Time zone and had to put our watches back one hour. We had a hot shower (yes on board a train!) and then headed for breakfast. At Sioux Lookout, Charlie got off to buy snacks and fags. He looked right at home🤣 . We passed miles and miles of frozen lakes as we crossed from Ontario to Manitoba and onto Winnipeg. And then miles of frozen wheat lands as we crossed from Manitoba into Saskatchewan; stopping for a break in Saskatoon. After Unity, we crossed the Saskatchewan border into Alberta and changed time zones again from Central to Mountain Time Zone …putting our watches back another hour.  Getting Ready For The Off! Evening – Wednesday 28 Mar 2007 This evening, we made our way forward to the dome/activity car (The Panorama Car). I had heard about this one with an upper section that sits above the rest of the train with windows completely encasing it so we can see the sky and all around. I really enjoyed this seat on the train. It was such a beautiful view and nice spot to meet new friends. Every mode of transportation I have ever used, the purpose of it is to get to the destination. “The Canadian”, however is different. The train IS the destination. So yes, we were on our way to Jasper, but we were already experiencing one of the best parts of our vacation. And it showed in how people treated one another. Friendly, relaxed, polite. After making some new friends in the dome car, we returned to our room to call it a night. While we were eating and exploring, our room was again changed from sitting room to bedroom. We entered to see our queen bed made and turned down for the night, complete with a chocolate on each pillow.  The Panorama Car  The Rockies (Photo: Via Rail) Morning - Thursday 29 Mar 2007 The Rockies Next morning the other Irish couple, Der and Eilis, got on in Edmonton. Der and Charlie became firm friends and smoking buddies….and by the time we got to Jasper all of the attendants on the train knew Charlie and Der, calling out advance notice of the next stops…so they could be ready with their fags and lighters! After Edmonton nearing Edson the first view of the snow-capped Rockies from “The Canadian” can be seen. The excitement on board was palpable. We headed up again to the Panorama Car and I gasped in amazement of the floor to ceiling windows with the Canadian Rockies in all its splendour. It was nothing short of breath-taking. Knowing I was going to be on a long train ride I brought a book to help pass the time, only I realised I actually never opened the pages. There was no need. I spent the entire time either in very enjoyable conversation with people from all over the world (including a retired American lady who was ex-military who advised us what gun to use if we were ever chased by a bear!!), or in awe looking out at the spectacular views of western Canada. All my experiences on VIA Rail were only enhanced by the fact that I got to share them with Charlie on one of our first ever long-haul holidays together. I reckon if we didn’t kill each other on that train we never would!! It was a trip of a lifetime and so very special.  The Rockies From Our Train Room IF YOU’VE NEVER BEEN ON VIA RAIL IN CANADA, CONSIDER ADDING IT TO YOUR WISH LIST OF SPECIAL GETAWAYS. YOU WON’T BE DISAPPOINTED IN YOUR CHOICE. 8 tips for first time VIA Rail train travellers!
 Our Train Arrives In Jasper, Rocky Mountains. Days 6-9 – Jasper Evening - Thursday 29 Mar 2007 (Jasper) On arrival at Jasper, our luggage was taken from the train and transported to our hotel, Chateau Jasper, (our home for the next four nights) leaving us unencumbered to join Kaycy (our Tour Director) on a stroll through the village to the hotel. The first thing Charlie did was buy a furry "Daniel Boone" hat complete with ear flaps! At the heart of the Rocky Mountains, Jasper was picture postcard perfect in its winter coat. That night there was an accidental activation of the fire alarm at the hotel and we all had to evacuate in the wee hours…me after being shaken awake by Charlie…I had slept through the alarm!  "Elk on the left-hand side!" All Day - Friday 30 Mar 2007 (Jasper) Today we had at leisure, so Charlie and I rested up in the morning before finding a launderette to do some laundry. We took the time to explore around the town and were amazed at the number of young elk eating vegetation in people’s gardens. Actually, every trip we made out of Jasper by coach was punctuated by Kaycy saying “Guys, if you look coming up THERE’S ELK ON THE LEFT-HAND SIDE!” It became a bit of a running joke with us. So many elk! On our walk, we even encountered a black bear! Okay…it was only Jasper, the official mascot of Jasper National Park! But he was BIG!  Jasper and Me All Day - Saturday 31 Mar 2007 (Jasper) We headed to the The Den Wildlife Museum …which is really worth a visit. It features mounted displays of wildlife including birds found in the area of Jasper. You can get up close and personal with Grizzlies without fear. A fabulous display of taxidermy with mounts of caribous, cougars, grizzly bears and more. A great rainy/ inclement weather day place to visit.  Grizzly and Me All Day - Sunday 01 April 2007 (Lake Louise & Banff) This morning at 9am the whole group opted for the optional excursion to visit the well-known towns of Lake Louise and Banff. The route from Jasper took us along one of the most spectacular roads in the world – The Icefields Parkway. We passed through the heart of the Rocky Mountains, with the towering pinnacles, glaciers, frozen lakes and waterfalls that are a photographer’s dream. It’s easy to see why this whole area of the Canadian Rocky Mountains Parks is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. For some of the trip we drove through thick snow in a blizzard but our trusty bus driver made light work of it. All the more amazing to see some people rock climbing….some even free climbing. Our first stop was the tranquil setting of frozen Lake Louise, overlooked by the dramatic Chateau Lake Louise, a short distance from the town itself. We continued to Banff for an afternoon to explore and shop, before returning to Jasper. We returned after our 11 hour trip tired but happy.  Our Bus  Icefields Parkway, 2007  "Frozen" Morning - Monday 02 April 2007 (Maligne Canyon Icewalk) Hike in to a Frozen Canyon Maligne Canyon Icewalk - This is one of Jasper’s most popular and impressive winter adventures. 8 of us left the hotel at 8:45am and at the canyon our Sundog tour guide took us to the bottom of the Maligne Canyon – the deepest accessible canyon in Jasper National Park – where we explored frozen waterfalls, ice caves, and incredible ice formations. Charlie even did a bit of limbo dancing!! We learnt about Jasper’s Maligne Valley, Karst topography, and the mystery of the “disappearing” Medicine Lake. As we were there early we were able to explore the canyon when the sun was a beautiful golden light beginning to warm the valley. The Maligne Canyon Icewalk Tour is a great option for anyone who does not ski or snowboard. Or if you are in for the week, get a full morning in on the slopes and then head into the Canyon for the afternoon. The Icewalk Tour covers approximately 3.5 kms (2.1 miles) and is mostly downhill. Participants are required to dress appropriately for the weather. Warm boots and ice cleats are provided. To this day the one thing Charlie and I still rave about is this Ice Walk. DO NOT MISS.  Maligne Canyon Icewalk 2009  Limbo Afternoon - Monday 02 April 2007 (Jasper) So after making the most of our morning in the Rockies, we re-joined the train for its afternoon departure, bound for Vancouver. It was a pleasure to be back on board the gleaming stainless steel cars once more. We again had the Romance by Rail package with the same room and amenities. The train snaked through the mountains, and once again the wrap-around windows of the Observation Dome put all of the snow clad peaks and starry skies within our line of vision. About 17 miles out of Jasper, the crest of the Yellowhead Pass is the border between Alberta and British Columbia and the division between Mountain and Pacific Time Zones. We again set our watches back an hour. Fifty or so miles into the trip, Mount Robson, which we had sight of for about 10 miles was fabulous. And the dinner that night again was great!  "The Canadian" & Mount Robson (Photo: Via Rail) Day 11 – Vancouver All Day - Tuesday 03 April 2007 On arrival at Canada’s coastal city of Vancouver at 7:50 am, after breakfast on board we said “goodbye” to “The Canadian” and transferred by coach to our hotel, the Renaissance Harbourside (now named the Pinnacle Harbourfront Hotel). It was exactly as it said on the tin; our room had a wonderful view of the Harbour and we especially loved to see the sea planes take off and land to/ from Victoria. We did an orientation tour of the city which took about 3 and a half hours. We then did some independent exploring seeing the Lions Gate Bridge and Stanley Park with its totem poles and much more. The Park was still trying to recover from the hurricane that hit it a few months before our trip and we were stunned to see some of the estimated 10,000 trees that had been flattened (See Related Video Here). Vancouver is spread low along the waterfront with the mountains soaring behind it, and boasts one of the most beautiful natural settings. It enjoys a more temperate climate than its sister cities of Canada. It definitely is stylish and cosmopolitan. Robson Street and the Pacific Central Mall are where you’ll find the shops. Yale town is a charming area of pubs and restaurants and the bohemian district of Gas Town is also well worth a visit.  Totem Pole, Stanley Park  Charlie in Vancouver Days 12 & 13 – Vancouver All Day - Wednesday 04 April 2007 Some of our group opted to do the North Shore Tour, but Charlie and I chose to do our own thing as we were meeting my friend, neighbour and school pal from my hometown of Carrick, Patricia. Patricia has made her home in Vancouver with her Canadian husband, Marvin, and their children. So, the guys picked us up in front of our hotel and we headed to wonderful Granville Island, stopping to have lunch in The Flaming Wok in the Richmond Centre. We loved the Granville Island Public Market with its array of produce. We then spent a wonderful day in their home in Delta picking their kids up from school, going on a nature walk and ending with a delicious family meal in the legendary White Spot restaurant. We thoroughly enjoyed the day and were sad to be saying goodbye to them late that evening.  Meeting Patricia & Marvin in Granville Island Morning – Thursday 05 April 2007 The first part of the day, Charlie and I visited the Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Gardens. The covered walkways provided shelter and the beautiful vistas could be appreciated in any weather. Definitely one of those places to see before you die. Afternoon – Thursday 05 April 2007 In the afternoon we headed to the Vancouver Aquarium where we saw cute otters, Nyac, and Milo. Nyac was a survivor of the 1989 Exxon Valdez oil spill in Alaska. (When we came home, we were amazed to find an article on them in that Saturday’s Irish Times!).  At Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Gardens, Vancouver Day 14 - Return Home Afternoon - Friday 06 April 2007 We were transferred to Vancouver airport by coach at 2pm for the long journey home via London; saying our good byes and thanks to Kaycy for taking care of us so well and contributing to the success of our holiday. We all took leave of each other at the airport and all agreed that we’d had an amazing time. (Two days later we visited Dublin Zoo and just before the African Plains we came around a corner and there it was ….a Tim Horton’s coffee shop! For old time’s sake I just had to have a coffee and doughnut….Kaycy would have been proud!) I hope I’ve given you a flavour of Canada and whetted your appetite. It really is worth a visit and should be on everyone’s Bucket List!! P.S. HAPPY CANADA DAY TOMORROW, GUYS! 1 JULY 2020  Bucket List Items Ticked Off in the above Blog post Number 6 - Adventure - Hike into a Frozen Canyon - Maligne Canyon, Canada Number 16 - Nature & Wildlife - Visit 8 Stunning Waterfalls - Niagara Falls, Canada Number 34 - Food & Drink - Eat/ Drink Regional Foods/ Drinks
Number 57 - Travel - 7 Continents - North America Number 58 - Travel - 80 Countries - Canada Number 59 - Travel - 80 Hotels
Number 76 - Experiences - 80 UNESCO World Heritage Sites
Other Blog Posts Blog 11 - Sydney, Australia Blog 12 - Hong Kong, China Blog 17 - Beijing, Xi'an & Shanghai, China Blog 19 - California, USA Blog 27 - Scotland Blog 28 - Barbados Have you been on holidays to Canada? Tell me about your experience in the comments section below. If you liked this post, please share. Sharing is caring 😊
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Mary
26/8/2023 14:06:38
Thank you! 1/2/2024 07:35:09
Tim Hortons, a popular restaurant in Canada, offers customers the opportunity to provide feedback through their survey at https://telltims-ca.co/survey/. By participating, customers have a chance to win an Iced coffee with frenched vanilla for $1. Leave a Reply. |
AuthorMy name is Mary and this is my bucket list blog ...having survived a near-death experience. I hope it encourages you to "live your best life". See how I'm completing my own bucket list items. And let me know how you're getting on with yours! Archives
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