 Rock of Cashel, Co. Tipperary Although I’m originally from South Tipperary, I have to admit that I haven’t seen a lot of the county. So, this week I jumped at the chance when I was invited to stay with my lovely cousin Rose near Thurles. We got to see the famous Rock of Cashel, enjoy Afternoon Tea in the Cashel Palace Hotel, be entertained at a great Irish-night at the Brú Ború Cultural Centre, travel down to Coolishal, Kilsheelan (Co. Waterford) where my great grandparents lived for a time before having a snack at the Horse & Jockey Hotel. This week’s blog tells how I got on. Rock of Cashel So, one of the first places we saw was the Rock of Cashel—or St. Patrick’s Rock, as it’s also known. Set atop an elevated knoll, the site commands excellent views over the green, grassy Irish countryside. According to local legends, the Rock of Cashel originated in the Devil's Bit, a mountain 20 miles (30 km) north of Cashel when St. Patrick banished Satan from a cave, resulting in the Rock landing in Cashel. Cashel is reputed to be the site of the conversion of the King of Munster by Saint Patrick in the 5th century.  Rock of Cashel - 2 Aug 2023 The Rock of Cashel was the traditional seat of the kings of Munster for several hundred years prior to the Norman invasion. In 1101, the King of Munster, Muirchertach Ua Briain, donated his fortress on the Rock to the Church. Few remnants of the early structures survive; the majority of buildings on the current site date from the 12th and 13th centuries. The oldest and tallest of the structure is the well-preserved Round Tower 28 metres (92 ft) high, dating from c.1100. Its entrance is 3.7 metres (12 ft) from the ground, necessitated by a shallow foundation (about 1 metre (3 feet) typical of round towers. Cormac's Chapel, the chapel of King Cormac Mac Carthaigh, was begun in 1127 and consecrated in 1134. It is a sophisticated structure, with vaulted ceilings and wide arches, drawing on contemporary European architecture and infusing unique native elements. The chapel was constructed primarily of sandstone which has become waterlogged over the centuries, significantly damaging the interior frescoes. Restoration and preservation required the chapel be completely enclosed in a rain-proof structure with interior dehumidifiers to dry out the stone. It is now open for limited tours to the public.  Rock of Cashel - 2 Aug 2023 The Cathedral, built between 1235 and 1270, is an aisleless building of cruciform plan, having a central tower and terminating westwards in a massive residential castle. The Hall of the Vicars Choral was built in the 15th century. The vicars choral were laymen (sometimes minor canons) appointed to assist in chanting the cathedral services. At Cashel, there were originally eight vicars choral with their own seal. This was later reduced to five honorary vicars choral who appointed singing-men as their deputies, a practice which continued until 1836. The restoration of the Hall was undertaken by the Office of Public Works as a project in connection with the European Architectural Heritage Year, 1975. Through it, visitors now enter the site. In 1647, during the Irish Confederate Wars, Cashel was sacked by English Parliamentarian troops under Murrough O'Brien, 1st Earl of Inchiquin. The Irish Confederate troops there were massacred, as were the Catholic clergy, including Theobald Stapleton. Inchiquin's troops looted or destroyed many important religious artefacts. Sometime during or after the mid-1730s, the main cathedral roof was destroyed by Arthur Price, the Anglican Archbishop of Cashel. Today, what remains of the Rock of Cashel has become a tourist attraction.  Rock of Cashel - 2 Aug 2023 Afternoon Tea at the Cashel Palace Hotel So having seen the Rock we headed to the Cashel Palace Hotel on Cashel’s Main Street. The Cashel Palace dates from 1732, when it was designed by Edward Lovett Pearce as an archbishop’s home. From archbishops to aristocracy, from country leaders to leading ladies, Cashel Palace boasts a rich and illustrious history of notable hospitality. Down through the years, the hotel has been synonymous with hosting glamorous guests including Jacqueline Kennedy, Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor, Ronald Reagan, Diana Spencer and Prince Joachim of Denmark. So, Rose and I felt right at home!! 😂 The hotel reopened after a multi-million-euro reboot by the Magnier family — a stunning restoration that has added 22 new bedrooms, a spa and ballroom. Cashel Palace is currently Co Tipperary’s only five-star hotel. We turned off the Main Street into the Palladian palace with its facade of crisply repointed brickwork and parked just inside the gate to the right. We were a bit surprised that the valet walked down to tell us politely that we had parked in the wrong place but we could leave the car there seeing as they weren’t too busy. He was friendly and showed us where we should have parked “for next time” but we still wondered why he had bothered.  Rose in the Cashel Palace Hotel lobby - 2 Aug 2023 Anyway, suitably admonished we made our way into the lobby and we could see immediately how beautiful the restoration had been. A real log fire flickered in the lobby, and even though it was a summer’s day, it was still very welcome as the day was a bit miserable outside. Between the columns, we could see many eye-catching paintings by John Lavery, William Orpen and others. Apparently, they are reproductions of the real artworks owned by the Magniers. The Magniers, who own nearby Coolmore Stud, bought it in 2016 and the redesign was overseen by Susan Magnier. It has a sense of understated, contemporary luxury with restored features like the cornicing. Even before it opened, the hotel was a member of both Relais & Châteaux and Ireland’s Blue Book. We were to have Afternoon Tea in the stunning Queen Anne Room. The ambience was beautiful with plenty of horsey paintings and photos (apparently if you stay at the hotel there’s even an “equine concierge”, with packages including private tours of Ballydoyle and Coolmore stud farms from €2,500 per couple).  Queen Anne Room, Cashel Palace Hotel So, below is the menu we had with the Afternoon Tea we had. The service from the friendly girls was good and attentive and after picking out the tea we wanted we were soon tucking in. Director of culinary Stephen Hayes and his team have put super effort into local sourcing; I spotted Crossogue preserves, Blackwater smoked salmon, Tullahey Farm Cream Cheese and mayonnaise from Magner’s Farm eggs! The food was very good but if I’m honest it wasn’t spectacular. But, I’d still recommend Afternoon Tea there for a special occasion for the ambience alone.  Our Afternoon Tea Menu, Cashel Palace Hotel - 2 Aug 2023 When we were leaving, we had a look around the gardens and they look fabulous. We were there in the afternoon but I’ve been told that there’s a great view of the Rock of Cashel at night also:  Gardens at Cashel Palace - 2 Aug 2023  Brú Ború Cultural CentreThat night, we headed to the iconic Brú Ború Cultural Centre for one of their “Summer Shows”. Located at the foot of the Rock of Cashel, these stage shows of traditional Irish music, song and dance run for two nights each week (Wednesdays and Thursdays) from Wednesday 12th July right up until the end of August commencing at 8:30p.m. each night. Adults €20 and Child under 16 years of age) €10.    Prior to the evening’s entertainment you can avail of the restaurant facilities. You can enjoy fine food in the awe-inspiring atmosphere of the Rock of Cashel. Irish recipes, home baking and good fresh produce are the ingredients which combine to make a dining experience in Brú Ború a memorable one. (Pre-booking is required for the restaurant phone 062 61122 or e-mail [email protected]). The unique Brú Ború performing group have achieved international recognition on five continents. As soon as they started performing, we could see why. They are in constant demand throughout the world because of their performance of Irish authentic traditional music, song and dance. One of their most recent high-profile performances took place in Brú Ború in March 2022 when they the now King Charles and Queen Camilla.  Brú Ború Cultural Centre - 2 Aug 2023  This group comprises the very best and most talented of musicians, singers and dancers. We thoroughly enjoyed the evening from start to finish. The show was delivered with energy and passion the intimate settings of the Brú Ború theatre. Following on from the stage show, performers and visitors mingle in the Teach Ceoil for some more entertainment where visitors can dance a jig, sing a song or play a tune – a lively Cashel set or Siege of Ennis. You can visit the adjoining bar or enjoy tea or coffee and a scone. I took some photos and a small amount of video. Apologies for any heads in the way……….I was holding the phone low so as not to distract the performers Coolishal, Gurteen, Co. Waterford The following day Rose drove me down to Coolishal in Co. Waterford where my great grandparent’s, John Gough and Alice Mulcahy Gough had lived when they returned from Worcester, MA in 1899 when John worked as a gamekeeper for the De La Poers. It was great to see it as I never knew where the house was:  House of my great grandparents at Coolishal Horse & Jockey Hotel On the way back from Coolishal we stopped for a snack in the well-known Horse and Jockey Hotel. The Horse & Jockey Hotel is run by the Egan family and their team of staff. Bought in 1986 by Tom Egan, who had years of experiences in the hotel industry both in the UK and Ireland, he saw much potential for the Horse & Jockey pub, which had been trading continuously for over 250 years & embracing it’s long history as an historic meeting spot decided to expand. The first part of the hotel was developed in 2002 with an addition of 32 bedrooms alongside a new dining room, Silks Restaurant. The Gift Horse Gallery Gift Shop was also opened in 2002 by Dorothy Egan who has been in the retail trade for much of her life and has a keen eye for unique and beautiful home interiors and gifts.  Horse & Jockey Hotel During this time the hotel cemented its position as a premier meeting spot and a refuge off the road on the long journey between Dublin and Cork. 2009 saw a large extension being added to the hotel. This extension coincided with the M8 motorway opening which by-passed the village, returning the hotel and village to much quieter times. To create a destination for guests off the motorway, amenities such as The Spa, Hair Salon & Leisure & Pool club were added along with an extensive conference centre and Derrynaflan 200 seater theatre. An opportunity for an in-house bakery was also spotted and so they opened 2 coffee bars plus a new retail shop, The Bakery Artisan Food Store, which showcases the finest baked goods all produced in-house.  Bar Snack Menu Horse & Jockey  We each had a tasty toasted special! So all too soon my trip to Rose came to an end and I headed back for Dublin on the train from Thurles vowing to return. Thanks again Rose! Bucket List Items Ticked Off in the above Blog 110 Number 39 - Food & Drink - Have Afternoon Tea in 8 Locations
Other Blog Posts Blog 11 - Sydney, Australia Blog 12 - Hong Kong, China Blog 17 - Beijing, Xi'an & Shanghai, China Blog 19 - California, USA Blog 27 - Scotland Blog 28 - Barbados Blog 29 - Canada Blog 30 - Alaska Blog 31 - Everglades, Florida Have you ever been to Co. Tipperary? Tell me about your experience in the comments section below. If you liked this post, please share. Sharing is caring 😊
2 Comments
Rose Gough
8/8/2023 20:44:25
It was a joy to have my cousin Mary to stay in Thurles.
Mary
8/8/2023 21:37:45
Aw! Thanks so much Rose! You're a great hostess and I really enjoyed it all. M xx Leave a Reply. |
AuthorMy name is Mary and this is my bucket list blog ...having survived a near-death experience. I hope it encourages you to "live your best life". See how I'm completing my own bucket list items. And let me know how you're getting on with yours! Archives
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