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B34: Coasts of Gold

8/9/2020

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Our First Cruise 1999

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Our Ship - M.S. Sapphire
​So a number of my blog posts have been about firsts; first holiday with Peggy (here), first holiday outside Ireland (here), first trip to the USA (here).  In June 1999, Peggy and I had another memorable first, our first cruise.  We booked a 7 Night “Coasts of Gold” Thomson Cruise on board the Sapphire from 13 June to 20 June 1999.  We would visit Malaga, Lisbon, Tangier, Cadiz, Casablanca and Gibraltar.  We were both excited but apprehensive; Peggy because she had bad memories of getting sea-sick on the Waterford cattle boat to Wales in the 1950s ….and me, because I had spent many days at the side of the road car-sick as a child never mind travelling in a ship.  But if you want to make omelettes you have to crack eggs…..so we were "raring to go".
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Our 1999 Route
​The itinerary was:
  • Sunday 13 June 1999 – Malaga, Spain - Fly from Dublin to Malaga to board the Sapphire.
  • Monday 14 June 1999 – At Sea - en-route to Lisbon, Portugal.
  • Tuesday 15 June 1999 – Lisbon, Portugal - Arrive 0800; Depart 1830.
  • Wednesday 16 June 1999 – Tangier, Morocco  - Arrive 1500; Depart 2200.
  • Thursday 17 June 1999 – Cadiz, Spain – Arrive 0800; Depart 2200.
  • Friday 18 June 1999 – Casablanca, Morocco – Arrive 1200; Depart 2000.
  • Saturday 19 June 1999 – Gibraltar, UK – Arrive 1000; Depart 2300.
  • Sunday 20 June 1999 – Arrive Malaga 0630 and fly back to Dublin.
We had an outside cabin with a porthole.  We knew the Sapphire was an older, smaller ship built in 1965 – the year I was born😊.  We opted for Early Seating Dining at 1845 each evening at the Four Seasons Restaurant on-board.  We asked to be seated with other people each evening.

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Our Dining Table (from top to bottom: L-R): Anne & Sarah, Marie & Susan, Mary & Peggy, Barbara & Carol.
Picture
​Day 1 of Cruise
Malaga, Spain
Sunday, June 13, 1999 (Evening Attire: Smart Casual)
Departed: 4:30PM


We had a quick view of Málaga en-route to the Sapphire.  Málaga lies on the Andalusian Costa del Sol and boasts some of the most significant cultural infrastructures and heritages in Europe. Málaga has it all, and its sights range from scenic beaches and hikes to its century-old castle structures, stylish harbours and restaurants.  Unfortunately, this time we were only passing through to the Puerto de Málaga.

However, with its location on the Costa del Sol, Málaga has some of the most fantastic coastal sceneries in the country. Málaga’s port is located only a few minutes outside of the city centre and impressed us through its successful adaption to a modern setting. A variety of shops and restaurants are clustered around the area and would make for a perfect break after a stroll down the harbour to watch the yachts and cruise ships roll in or to people watch. 

Incidentally, Málaga is not only the birthplace of Pablo Ruiz Picasso, but also offers a marvellous collection of his works. The Museo Picasso Málaga is located in the centre of the old town, close to the Plaza de la Merced, where Picasso was born.  It exhibits a selection of Picasso’s work from the late 19th century until his death in 1973.
​
We were both so excited to eventually be on board the Sapphire.  Everything was fantastic to us as, being our first cruise, we had nothing to compare it with.  Our cabin was small but had everything we needed.  We got ready for dinner; ravenous from a day’s travelling.  We made our way down to the Four Seasons Restaurant for 1845 a bit anxious to find out who our dining companions were to be.  We needn’t have worried.  We had been matched with 6 women from England; Sarah and Ann (a niece and aunt), Marie and Susan (two friends) and Barbara and Carol (another two friends).  We all hit it off straight away. 

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Us with Captain Zafeiriadis - 14 Jun 1999
Day 2 Cruise
At Sea (Cruising)
Monday, June 14, 1999 (Evening Attire:  Formal)

The day started with breakfast in the Four Seasons…we decided that table service would be the best choice for us and weren’t disappointed.  Then we had our Muster Drill at 10 am …..the laugh Peggy and I had donning our life jackets!  The rest of the day at sea was taken up with the day’s activities…..we had fun watching line dancing and a cocktail demo.   There was lot of great music on-board and we went to the Marco Polo Lounge to take part in a 60s music Quiz….but as Larry Gogan would have said “the questions just didn’t suit us!”  😂
​
That evening was formal night …so we put the “glad rags” on and headed down at 1800 to Captain Ioannis Zafeiriadis’ Cocktail Party.  We were delighted to get our photo taken with him (above) looking splendid in his uniform.  We learned that our Captain was born in Piraeus in Greece.

​After another delicious meal in the Four Seasons we headed to the music revue.  Let’s just say they tried very hard!  We headed to bed after that.  The sea was starting to get choppier as we were out of the Med and into the Atlantic on the way to Lisbon.  We had brought sea-sickness wrist bands which work by acupressure and I presume they worked as neither of us felt sick at all.  In fact we found the slight rocking motion put us to sleep.

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"25 April Bridge", Lisbon, Portugal
Day 3 Cruise
Lisbon, Portugal
Tuesday, June 15, 1999 (Evening Attire: Smart Casual)
Docked: 8:00AM to 6:30PM

We awoke to a bright sunny day.  We docked shortly after 8 am while we were finishing breakfast.  Our shore excursion would give us a taste of Lisbon in 4 hours.  Lisbon is a quintessential European city, full of natural beauty, historic architecture and culinary pleasures — not to mention one of the best climates anywhere on the planet. To get to know Portugal's capital, our excursion would include a guided stroll through distinct areas of Lisbon, tasting local delicacies along the way.  
 
Our guide, an elderly local lady, was hilarious….she led us down a street in Alfama, the oldest part of the city, to see “somewhere really important”…it was where she had slipped on cobble stones and broke her leg a few years earlier!  Alfama felt as if we’d travelled back in time as we ambled narrow alleys and streets, passing tiny squares, historic churches, and whitewashed houses. The streets were festooned with floral garlands. 
Picture
Peggy walking through Alfama, Lisbon - 15 June 1999
We marvelled at the wrought-iron balconies adorned with flowers, and stopped in a local tavern for refreshments.  We both wanted a taste of Portugal and so had coffee and pasteis de nata (a delicious pastry with custard).
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Pasteis de Nata - Yum!
​We then were taken by coach to see the immaculately manicured landscapes of King Edward VII Park.  We took some photos there. 
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Peggy at King Edward VII Park, Lisbon, 15 June 1999
​I was excited to see the Discoveries Monument (Padrão dos Descobrimentos), a monumental sculpture beside the Tagus, commemorating the golden age of Portuguese maritime history.  This huge stone caravel was built in 1940 for the Portuguese World Expo by the architect Cottinelli Telmo and the sculptor Leopoldo de Almeida. It was only given permanent status in 1960 to celebrate the fifth centenary of the death of Prince Henry the Navigator.  It has all the main navigators that I had learnt about as a child, such as Bartholomew Dias – who turned the Cape of Torments into the Cape of Good Hope; Vasco da Gama – who discovered the maritime route to India; Pedro Álvares Cabral – who discovered Brazil; and Magellan – the first European to cross the southern Pacific and circumnavigate the earth.
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Discoveries Monument, Lisbon - 15 June 1999
We marvelled at Belem Tower (a UNESCO World Heritage Site): this 100 foot watchtower was completed in 1519 and is richly ornamented with symbols of royal power and the colossal exterior of the 16th-century Jeronimos Monastery, two jewels of Portuguese Manueline architecture. 
belem-tower-lisbon
Me at Belém Tower, Lisbon - 15 June 1999
Day 4 Cruise
Tangier, Morocco
Wednesday, June 16, 1999 (Evening Attire: Smart Casual)
Docked: 3 PM to 10:00PM

We arrived in Tangier mid-afternoon.  We were both very excited to be in this very exotic place as it was our first time on the African continent.  Tangier, a Moroccan port on the Strait of Gibraltar, has been a strategic gateway between Africa and Europe since Phoenician times. Its whitewashed hillside medina is home to the Dar el Makhzen, a palace of the sultans that's now a museum of Moroccan artifacts.  

​We found it to be an intriguing blend of familiar and utterly different.  The port was a bustling industrial zone and there are prosperous chemical and agribusiness industries, but barely a stone’s throw away are women in flowing robes, whitewashed courtyards, camel trains and labour-intensive handicraft shops.
tangier
Tangier, Morocco
​Tangier has a reputation as a city of intrigue and romance, a mecca for decades of spies and smugglers, beloved by artists and writers.   The American humourist, Mark Twain, travelled to Tangier in the late 1800s and wrote: “Tangier is a foreign land if ever there was one: and the true spirit can never be found in any book save The Arabian Nights”.  For many years Tangier was an international zone, administered by eight countries, with free trade and no tax – luring world-wide commerce and boosting the city’s economy a hundred-fold.  
kasbah-tangier-morocco
Kasbah, Tangier, Morocco
​We started our three and a half hour tour at 3:30 PM starting with a panoramic drive through various areas of the city. A drive along the main street which is the French quarter. Then the Spanish quarter, the American area known as the small California. Afterwards, we continued our drive through the old British colony which is considered to be an exclusive area with seven palaces, many famous people had a summer palace up there and many other artists and celebrities.  A picture stop at Cap Spartel, where the Mediterranean and the Atlantic Ocean meet together and the separation point of Africa and the Europe by the Giant Hercules according to the Greek Mythology.
alleyway-tangier-morocco
Alleyway, Tangier, Morocco
Then back to the most exciting part of the tour: the Kasbah and Medina for the cultural visit; the walking tour started with the visit to the colourful Markets (fish, meat and vegetable markets). The cultural visit included the mendoubia garden, the famous Kasbah which is located at the highest point of the Medina. In 1999, it was a lively place.  The Medina spread out below it: The Grand Socco – or souk – which is a vast permanent market place, and the Petit Socco, a smaller, café-lined square.  Both were fascinating places to explore; though a little disconcerting as we needed to be aware of our surroundings to keep our personal belongings and composure intact!

We ended with a Moroccan fresh mint tea at the Petit Socco which was the gathering point of many famous writers and artists.
moroccan fresh mint tea
Moroccan Fresh Mint Tea, Tangier
Day 5 Cruise
Cadiz, Spain
Thursday, June 17, 1999 (Evening Attire: Smart Casual)
Docked: 8:00AM to 10:00PM

Cadiz is among the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the Western world, founded by Phoenician sailors about 3,000 years ago.  It is also a perfect place to unleash your inner foodie, savouring local specialties like fresh-grilled langouste (lobster). Or, engage in some retail therapy and buy yourself a colourful fan that celebrates this region's famous Flamenco culture.
​
We had signed up to the “Cadiz & Jerez De La Frontera” tour which left at 8:45 am and would last four and a half hours.   Our tour began with a panoramic drive through the city of Cádiz on our way to Jerez de La Frontera passing by the Cathedral Square, our guide pointed out the most important monuments in the oldest quarter of the city. We then proceeded to Jerez de La Frontera, a town only 30 miles (50 km) from the sea and Cadiz. The milder climate makes it possible to cultivate the grapes that produce the three main varieties of sherries. The landscape we saw from the coach changed from the dry coastal plain to the fertile land near Jerez.
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Peggy in front of Jerez Cathedral, Spain - 17 June 1999
We began our visit by walking towards the cellars.  From the outside we saw the Alcazar and the Cathedral of Jerez, taking in the atmosphere of this picturesque city.  A snapped a photo (above) of Peggy on the steps of Jerez Cathedral. 

​We then visited a cellar, where we followed the process of creating sherry from grape cultivation to bottling.   All very interesting.
sherry-cellar-jerez
Sherry Cellar, Jerez, Spain
​But it was even better when at the conclusion of the visit, we tasted some tasty sherry before the return drive to Cadiz.  We arrived back on the ship nicely sozzled – as if we had “partied like it’s 1999” – because it WAS! 😜
sherry-tasting-jerez
Sherry Tasting in Jerez

Day 6 Cruise
Casablanca, Morocco
Friday, June 18, 1999 (Evening Attire: Formal)
Docked: 12:00PM to 8:00PM

The gateway to Morocco’s exotic interior and the Imperial Cities of Rabat and Marrakech, Casablanca is a modern city swathed in rich history and vintage romance. Contemporary commercial and industrial buildings juxtapose against narrow cobbled streets, colourful bazaars, and awe-inspiring minarets in the country’s largest city.
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Arriving in Casablanca, Morocco - 18 June 1999
​An important trading centre, Casablanca has passed though many hands as a colonial stronghold for the Romans, Portuguese, and French, absorbing these influences while maintaining its position as the economic heart of the country into its modern independence. Hollywood scenes may paint Casablanca as a dusky, far-off destination, but today the bustling metropolis is the most progressive and cosmopolitan city in Morocco.
 
A vision in contrasts, modern neighbourhoods host whitewashed houses along broad, tree-lined avenues, while the walled Old Medina presents narrow alleys and traditional architecture. Along cobbled streets you discover hand-crafted pottery and charming cafes. Whether you’re searching for cultural immersion or modern convenience, Casablanca offers it all—and then some.
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Peggy, Me, Anne, Sarah at Hassan II Mosque, Casablanca - 18 June 1999
​We embarked on our “Taste of Casablanca” tour at 1:30pm and lasted almost four hours.  We delved into the religious history, artistic heritage and Hollywood lore of Casablanca. Our tour began at the awe-inspiring Hassan II Mosque, crowned by a minaret rising more than 850 feet overhead. Unfortunately we were not allowed inside but externally we enjoyed this architectural achievement boasting a retractable roof that can transform the grand prayer hall into an open-air patio in a matter of minutes.
 
After our visit, we drove along the famed Corniche Boulevard, hugging the city's gorgeous beaches. We continued on through the French streets of the trendy Habous Quarter.

​Here's looking at us, kid ... enjoying a great day in Casablanca.

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Being Serenaded With A Paper Rose from our Waiter.....
Picture
...which I still have...21 Years Later!!
Day 7 Cruise
Gibraltar, UK
Saturday, June 19,1999 (Evening Attire: Smart Casual)
Docked: 10:00AM to 11:00PM

 Gibraltar rocks — in more ways than one. From ancient castles to lush botanical gardens and the panoramic views you enjoy from the city's cable car, this British Overseas Territory is more than its most famous landmark, the Rock of Gibraltar. If you cruise to Gibraltar you discover more than 300 years of history while touring landmarks like the Convent, where Gibraltar's governors have resided since the 18th century. Or monkey around with Barbary macaques, a semi-wild species of monkey that calls the territory home. 
barbary-macaque-gibraltar
Barbary Macaque, Gibraltar
​We started our “Highlights of Gibraltar & Cable Car” tour at St. Michael's Cave.  Of over the 150 caves that have been discovered in the Rock of Gibraltar this is the most visited with over one million visitors per year. The cave is situated at over 300 metres above sea level. In 1942 during WWII, blasting was in process inside this cave in order to allow for more ventilation. The cave was to be used as an emergency hospital. During the blasting, a discovery was made of a deeper system of caves which is now known as Lower St. Michael’s Cave.
st-michaels-cave-gibraltar
St. Michael's Cave, Gibraltar
THE CABLE CAR: The Rock itself is an impressive sight but it’s only when seen from on high that you appreciate why so many have wished to conquer this small isthmus and how it has played such an important part in world history. From the terraces of the Top Station you can gaze down over the town below, look North towards Sierra Nevada over the Costa del Sol, look East over the blue Mediterranean Sea and South across the Strait of Gibraltar to the Rif Mountains of North Africa. In short you will view 2 continents, 3 countries and the meeting point of 2 great bodies of water. Impressive is not the word!  Built and completed by a Swiss Cable Car manufacturer, Von Roll, in 1966 the Cable Car is a must for all visitors to the Rock.
​
Before coming down on the Cable car, we stopped off at The Top Station which is the perfect location to relax while enjoying the spectacular vistas with a hot or cold drink and a light snack from the Top of the Rock Café or enjoy a more leisurely meal or cocktail at the Mons Calpe Suite Restaurant and Bar. You won’t be disappointed. The Top of the Rock Souvenir Shop is also packed with unique gifts not available in town.
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Cable Car, Rock of Gibraltar
The top of the Rock where we had an interaction with the famous "Monkeys" at Upper Apes Den (The same height level as the cable).  The Barbary Macaque Apes are the only ones to be found within the continent of Europe. They reside at the upper rock nature reserve of Gibraltar. At present there are over 200 apes in 9 packs that roam through the upper rock. Legend has it that in 1942 the population of apes fell to just 7 and the Prime Minister of Great Britain (Sir Winston Churchill) ordered that the population of the apes be immediately replenished because as long as there are Barbary Macaques Apes on the Rock of Gibraltar it will remain under British rule.
​
Europa Point Europa Point, situated at the most southern point of Gibraltar, is where the Europa Point Lighthouse can be found. Here we could appreciate spectacular views across the Straits of Gibraltar into North Africa, Morocco and Spanish Ceuta, as well as views across the Bay of Gibraltar.  The Lighthouse itself was built between 1838 and 1841. In 1994 it became fully automated, its loom can be seen from over 27 kilometres (17 miles) away. 
europa-point-lighthose-gibraltar-1999
Peggy at Europa Point Lighthouse, Gibraltar - 19 June 1999
​At Europa Point can be found the Shrine of Our Lady of Europa along with The Nuns Well which is an ancient underground reservoir.  We also saw the King Fahd bin Abdulaziz al-Saud Mosque which had opened two years previously.   Finally, before heading back to the ship we drove to Gibraltar Airport Drive where we drove across the famous Gibraltar runway!!
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At King Fahd bin Abdulaziz al-Saud Mosque, Gibraltar - 19 June 1999
​That night on the ship we had some more photos taken:
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"Ship Ahoy!"
Day 8 Cruise
Malaga, Spain
Sunday, June 20, 1999
Arrival: 6:00AM

Shortly after 6:30 am we docked back in Malaga …hard to believe it was only 7 days since we left.  And in that time we had travelled 1,208 nautical miles.  After breakfast on-board, we made our way to the gangplank and disembarked the ship around 8:30 am.  We transferred to Malaga airport and caught the flight to Dublin with no drama.

We arrived back in Dublin tired but happy that everything had gone so well on our first cruise.  We couldn’t wait to get home to book another!  


Bucket List Items Ticked Off in the above Blog post
​Number 34 - Eat/ Drink Regional Foods/ Drinks
  • Eat Portuguese Custard Tarts in Portugal
  • Drink Moroccan Mint Tea in Morocco
  • Drink Sherry in Jerez, Spain
Number 57 - Travel - 7 Continents
  • Europe
  •  Africa
Number 58 - Travel - 80 Countries
  • Spain
  • Portugal
  • Morocco
  • Gibraltar
Number 60 - Travel - 80 Cities/Towns
  • Malaga, Spain
  • Lisbon, Portugal
  • Tangier, Morocco
  • Cadiz, Spain
  • Jerez de la Frontera, Spain
  • Casablanca, Morocco
  • Gibraltar, UK
Number 61 - Travel - Sail the Seven Seas - Atlantic Ocean & Mediterranean Sea
Number 76 - Experiences - 80 UNESCO World Heritage Sites
  • Belem Tower, Lisbon, Portugal
Number 80 - Experiences - 80 Tall Vantage Points
  • Top of the Rock of Gibraltar

​Other Blog Posts
Blog 11 - Sydney, Australia
Blog 12 - Hong Kong, China

Blog 17 - Beijing, Xi'an & Shanghai, China
Blog 19 - California, USA
Blog 27 - Scotland
Blog 28 - Barbados
Blog 29 - Canada
Blog 30 - Alaska
Blog 31 - Everglades, Florida


Have you been to any of these places?  Tell me about your experience in the comments section below.
​

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    ​My name is Mary and this is my bucket list blog ...having survived a near-death experience.  I hope it encourages you to "live your best life". See how I'm completing my own bucket list items.  And let me know how you're getting on with yours!

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